The Importance Of A Hat!

A word about hats…

I love hats! To me there is nothing like a great hat to finish off an outfit. I think it’s really sad that hats are not more popular in this time period, for during most of our long course in history, hats were of great importance.

Millinery, which is the art of hat making, has existed as a trade in Britain since 1700, of course it  was practiced for many centuries prior to that. It was a lucrative career and one that even a woman could pursue.  Separate from the  Milliner was the Plumassier, who specialized in plummage and the dyeing and arranging of feathers. Feathers were, of course,  prized and very important, since no hat would be complete without at least one plume. The rich would pay a  veritable fortune for an elaborately feathered hat and some sported entire stuffed birds; that was until the Audubon Society put a stop to that!

Hats have always been used to protect the head and keep it warm since much heat is lost through the top of ones  head, however, hats have also, for many centuries been status symbols and fashion statements; there is nothing like a hat to draw attention to the face.They were large, small, plain and elaborate and were worn by both men and women. You would’ve known immediately what a man’s occupation was by the hat he wore, whether he was rich or poor, working or upper class. During the Regency period or Napoleonic era, a man of title or money would have worn a tall top hat or perhaps a bowler. It might have been made of wool, beaver fur or even horse hair. Sea faring men wore very distinguishable head gear with Captains wearing tricorns, bicornes, fore and afts or Chapeau de Bras.  Hats represent authority and were and are today still a part of a uniform for military men, police officers and others.

For women however, hats are and have most often been, a fashion accessory. Much effort and expense went into the procuring of the perfect hat and it is by far the most important one that any person can wear. There is an old saying that says, if you want to get noticed or get ahead, wear a hat. I believe the pun is intended.

Head coverings were not limited to fashion only however, and during many periods of history, there was real etiquette involved in the wearing of one. A lady of any class and during most historical eras, would not have been properly dressed  if she did not have something covering her head. This practice continued until as recently as the 1950s and 60s – my grandmother for example, would not have stepped into a church without a hat on her head. During the Victorian and Edwardian periods a woman would have been  in disgrace if she did not cover her head even if it was just to post a letter. Only the poor or the peasants sometimes went without head gear and even women of that class often wore caps, which  had the added advantage of keeping ones hair clean and tidy.

Hats have slowly lost popularity since about the 1920s, being used only for church attendance, weddings and other special occasions into the 1950s and 60s. Today, it is indeed rare to see an individual wearing a hat that does not serve a practical purpose, (unless of course if you are the queen) or isn’t part of a uniform. Sad but true.

One great thing of course about re-enacting or dressing in historical reproductions is that we can go a little hat crazy…

Costume Update; Regency Gown #2

Well, I’m finally done the second Regency gown and what a lovely thing it is!  It is made once again in the simple styling of the drawstring gown of the early 1800’s but with a few extravagances.

I decided to do this one in an ivory silk like taffeta. The fabric has a lovely texture, just a little bit shiny and is liberally decorated with an embroidered leaves and vine pattern. I think it really has an authentic look about it.  I decorated this dress with some lovely ivory venetian style lace which I added to the sleeves and around the skirt of the gown and accented it with ivory satin rosebuds.  I made a wide belt with left over fabric and also decorated that with a length of the same lace.  There is a lace insert at the neckline of the gown and because it was improper for a lady to show her cleavage other than for evening, I also made a lace shawl collar to go with it and will wear long ivory opera length gloves to cover my arms.  This, I feel also nicely suits a middle aged lady like myself rather well. The great thing about it is that with the removal of the shawl feature the gown easily converts from a day dress to an evening gown with the right accessories.

I was excited to purchase the most fabulous head gear from MsRegencys Bee In Your Bonnet at a super price. This lady creates the most delightful Regency bonnets and hats. You can visit her ebay store here if you are interested in having a look at her lovely and high quality products.  I added the ivory lace cap ruffle to the hat as most regency ladies would not have left home without this item; it was worn simply left on under the hat in much the way I am wearing it. To tie it in with my gown I added a large pearl hat pin and an ivory ostrich feather. Looks pretty snazzy I think!

For accessories, I already had my ivory parasol and fan both fully laced and decorated and I added an antique brass and carnelian cameo locket (complete with a minature of my seafaring Royal Marine husband inside), pearl earrings and a triple row of red coral beads around my neck. I also used a vintage shell cameo pin to secure the shawl.  I recently read that coral necklaces were very popular with the ladies of the regency period and since both my daughter and I each own coral necklaces I thought this would be a perfect opportunity to wear one of them. I also purchased a pair of cotton bloomers or pantaloons since my dress is quite see through and I’m wearing a nice pair of flat slipper shoes on my feet.

I really love this costume, it’s so very comfortable, easy to move in, exceptionally cool to wear and looks really lovely! Bless me, what more could a girl ask for, besides a hot cup of tea that is…?

Well…that’s about it really, I’ll let the pictures tell the rest of my story.  Now all I have to do is finish the lace on the Naval Officer’s uniforms and we’re all set for The Tall ships Festival, which by the by, is just a few scant weeks away.

The Historical Parasol

A Parasol for the “Passage to India”

Almost everyone has used an umbrella on a rainy day. I can remember a time when it was part of the back to school arsenal, we all had to walk, either to the bus stop or to the school, and it  didn’t matter what the weather was like. My mother didn’t have the luxury of a car in the driveway for many years, as with most families my father took it to go to work each day. That meant we had to walk to school, no rides, so…we all owned rain gear, rubber boots and umbrellas.

Lady with a Parasol, by Monet

Parasols were a somewhat different matter and weren’t used as much, particularly not individually or in this part of the world. Of course, most of us likely own a patio umbrella or a beach parasol.  In other parts of the world however, individual parasols are and always have been very popular and in history they were a staple of the fashion industry.

Parasols and umbrellas are truly ancient and have been used for thousands of years to protect their users from both the sun and the rain. Sculptures and Pictograms of the very early civilizations display the use of parasols, particularly by the upper classes  and royalty. They were made of various materials including feathers, palm leaves, bamboo and paper.  In China they were even collapsible and lacquered or waxed making them somewhat water repellent.  In Egypt tanned skin was unfashionable and the upper classes shielded themselves from the sun. Parasols were used in India, Assyria, Persia and Greece, as early as 1200 BC by high ranking noblemen and were generally carried by their servants.

Parasols carried by the servants of a Nobleman

By the early 16th century parasols had made their way to Europe, most likely through trading routes, and via the silk road. They became very popular with church dignitaries and were soon-after adopted by the European gentry. There is some speculation that the halos seen above religious figures in various paintings, may actually have been the addition of a misunderstood parasol.

During the following centuries the parasol became a very popular fashion item, they very much belonged to the realm of high society women, whose pale and untanned skin was the signature of their rank. They became small, light and collapsible so there was no longer the need for a servant to carry them.

Lace and Beaded Fringe

In the 18th century a parasol completed a woman’s outfit, just as a hat, handbag and shoes might. They were made of cotton, silk and adorned with lace, braid, satin, beading and an assortment of  other various trims.  The handles were long or shorter, the covers small or larger, it all depended on the era and the fashion trends of the day.  From what I have seen, the handles were made of wood and decorated with ivory, mother of pearl and even gold and silver. Not only did they protect these ladies from the sun, but they were also used as a means to flirt, and even as a handy way to protect them from unwanted advances.

Parasol Detail

When my research was completed, I knew I needed to add the historical parasol to the accessories list for the ladies’ gowns, “The Passage to India” and “An English Rose”.  There are many beautiful parasols available, and the sky is really the limit, but I was looking for a particular style.  I wanted a small covering and longer handle.  After much searching I found just what I was looking for, in a variety of colours and at a reasonable price.  They were however unadorned so…I would have to decorate them myself.  I purchased two, a black one and an ivory one.

Fashion Woes!

Caricature poking fun at the new fashion of 1796

The first reproduction gown we are doing will date to about 1795.

I chose not to aspire to create a Regency period gown, since quite frankly I don’t  really like them all that much, and in all honesty I don’t believe those gauzy, see through, low cut concoctions were actually worn by “mature” women.

For a brief period of about 30 years it seems that society forgot all about modesty

Marie Antoinette style court gown

and just let it all hang out, as it were! By the 1820s, fashion had returned to a much more covered up state of affairs and a lot more fun too.  Why go to all the trouble of dressing up in a period gown if it’s not going to be big and eccentric!?  So with those thoughts in mind, let’s find something a little more modest and appealing and “big”!

Hmm, perhaps the Antoinette gown might be a bit much… but don’t worry, I found something just right!